Mughal Tombs in New Delhi: Safdarjung

Mughal Tombs in New Dehli

At one time, what is now New Dehli, was woodland around the ancient city group that came to be known as Dehli. The ruling Muslim Moghul dynasty, holding sway over a limited and always contested territory, contributed relatively little to the lasting architectural legacy of the region. What does still exist is neatly summed up in a triad of tomb complexes housing an uncertain number of emperors, prime ministers, and family members. The elaborate sandstone structures, ornamented in Islamic motifs and topped with great onion domes, surrounded by rectilinear stone walls and enclosed gardens, house the remains of occupants whose identities remain uncertain, though logical assumptions can be made. The rulers at the top of the heap might be in central positions (though it is also thought these positions were given to favorite wives), and smaller surrounding sarcophagi may well be the children, even adult children. These grouped sarcophagi are seen in the Lodi and Humayun complexes. The bodies themselves are buried twenty to thirty feet down in an effort to protect them from eventual pillage. Some of the questions surrounding identity could be answered by the pillaging of modern archaeology, but no such endeavor has yet been undertaken. The content of the tombs remains a discovery for future archeologists or looters, whoever’s first.

Today, the gardens provide citizens with a bit of respite from the city’s hustle and bustle and a few breaths of fresher air. New Dehliites are gregarious while remaining modest and unobtrusive, so the garden parks are quiet havens even for tourists. Young people enjoy relative freedom, so courting couples abound on the weekends.

You can click on any image to enlarge it.

Lodi Garden Tombs

Click on the image to read
the posted description.

Lodi Garden Map

There's much more to see!

The Roads Between

Riding in an "auto-ricksha," a.k.a. a tuk-tuk
(as they are known in Thai language).

A tuk-tuk piloted by a Sikh man.

India's Prime Minister Modi is very
visible. He associates with many
programs aimed at improving conditions
in India.

The heat is here and building, so the ice
cream vendors are out in force.

Common form of freight transport
in New Delhi.

Safdarjung’s Tomb

Information plaque outside the main entrance.

The main entrance perpendicular to Lodi Road. The upper half-cupola is colorfully painted plaster.

Well worn flagstone paving leads the way into the
cool shadows and out again into the light.

Mosque at the eastern border of the tomb complex, seen from outside the main gate.

A grand vision through the main entrance.

The view from the east side, just through the main entrance.

The view from the west side.

The honorific tomb. The deceased are generally buried 20-30 feet below, for protection against pillage.

Carved plaster ceiling of the dome. The dome is double, with an inner and outer layer, plus this ceiling.

Inside the main chamber of Safdarjnng's tomb.

A door.

The Moguls were an islamic dynasty.

Simple tools still in wide use.

Delivery vehicle for cement, sand, and gravel for repairs going on just to the left.

Entering Safdarjung's tomb, still more.

Entering Safdarjung's tomb.

The doorways are cool because of the shade
and the funneling effect on whatever light
breeze might be stirring.

Doors to the Modi Mahal (Pearl Palace), one of two palaces built into the walls, this one on the south side, the other opposite on the north side.

From inside the tomb, looking northward to the Badshah Bahand (King's Favorite). I missed getting a shot of the Jangli Mahal (Forest Palace) to the west. That was where I took the second panoramic photo of the tomb above.

Corner view of Safdarjung's tomb. The galleries below are not interconnecting, as they are in other similar structures, such as Humayun's tomb and the Taj Mahal's outer wall.

White marble floor with semi-precious stone inlay. This style is common in Mughal architecture, as well as present-day tourist treasures made mainly in the Agra area (Taj Mahal). The white marble is quarried in that region.

Comparing this section to the one above, there is more sign of damage and maybe prize hunting by tourists. Note the missing bits of inlay.

This red flower is missing most of the red gemstone inlay.

The play of light changes at every turn, with every move.

Red sandstone makes up most of the structure, with white marble trim.

Discarded rubber stamps are evidence of the habit of bureaucracy.

The text can be made out with patient examination.

Red sandstone, white marble, and red quartzite.

Half of the symmetry.

Symmetry from another perspective.

A door in the outer wall

The longest stretch of archways in the lower
surrounding gallery. Not as extensive as
seen in other Mughal structures.

Carved foot of the marble doorframe.

Light, shadow, light, tom.

That's all for Safdarjung's Tomb.

Humayun’s Tomb Complex

We visited this set of sites with our friends Debbie and Rick during their recent stay in New Delhi, ahead of their trip further afield. Debbie is our friend from the Belgium years. We met her brother, Rick, during his visits to Belgium and quickly felt like old friends. Both retired now, they are enjoying some terrific adventures around the world.

Captions on their way...